Santa Cruz, California: Fun on the Boardwalk and Beyond

While Austin and Portland worked to stay weird, Santa Cruz never had to try. A quirky, artsy spirit permeates the town, from Santa Cruz Skateboards’ “screaming hand” logo to anarchist community space SubRosa to a street poet click-clacking custom verses on an antique typewriter on downtown’s Pacific Avenue. This beach town on the northern edge of Monterey Bay became an epicenter of counterculture not long after UC Santa Cruz opened in 1965, and it’s been rejecting social norms ever since. Today, Santa Cruz is entering a transformative period as its rougher edges become polished by shiny new destinations including an oceanfront hotel.

Surf and Skate

Dive into the origins of Surf City’s DIY attitude. Main­land surfing started here in 1885, when three visiting Hawaiian princes carved boards out of redwood. View other shapely designs at the Santa Cruz Surfing Museum, then stick around for impromptu drum circles in the cliff top field overlooking the popular surf spot Steamer Lane. Admire skateboarding’s antiestablishment iconography at the NHS Skate­board Museum, curated by local legends such as 66-year-old skate pioneer Judi Oyama; watch the current generation ride the bowls at Derby Park.

Tide to Table

California’s certified organic movement was born here, yet this college town was never known for its food. That’s evolved thanks to chefs who moved to the area during the pandemic. Deca­dent seafood platters await at downtown’s Hook & Line, where rockfish and king salmon get the fine-dining treatment. Around the corner, Mad Yolks turns the humble breakfast sandwich into scrambled-egg-on-brioche art. In nearby Aptos, former Michelin-starred chef David Kinch focuses on seasonal ingredients for his pizzas and pastas at the Riviera-inspired Mentone.

Retro Rules

Thrifting isn’t just for college kids. Pacific Avenue boasts the county’s highest concentration of vintage clothing shops—from bountiful and cheap at FreeStyle and Crossroads Trading to hand-picked and pricier at Pastime Vintage and Virgo. The thrill of the hunt continues at Bookshop Santa Cruz and Bad Animal, where collectible and rare hardcovers chill alongside bargain paperbacks. In the evenings, Bad Animal turns into a natural wine bar and restaurant, because—as the owners put it—wine and books are both “needed to travel the Dionysian path.”

Epic Views

From towering redwoods to sparkling ocean, Santa Cruz’s beauty shines in every direction. At Cotoni-­Coast Dairies, the region’s newest national monument, hike past cows grazing before a sweeping seascape. Minutes away off Highway 1, the graffitied ruins of Davenport Pier make for a sweet photo op. Head to the mountains to try forest bathing (the practice of immersing yourself in nature) among old-growth giants at Henry Cowell Redwoods State Park or on a guided walk in the woods at the 300-acre Chaminade Resort & Spa. At Main and Cowell Beaches, sea lions bark under the wharf and surfers slice the waves. Swing by a game of beach volleyball, but stick around for sunset photo ops—and great views of the pier, as well.

Chic Suites

Opened in 1907, the Santa Cruz Beach Board­walk is still the town’s biggest tourist attraction. But the neighborhood around it—with its souvenir stores, surf shops, and snack shacks—doesn’t exactly evoke luxury. The new La Bahia Hotel & Spa intends to change that. Built on the site of a glamorous 1920s resort, the boutique property echoes the original structure’s Spanish Colonial Revival design—and preserves its landmark bell tower. Breathe in the ocean breeze at the pool, the roof deck, or the restaurant terraces of High Tide and Low Tide.

If you’re looking for a place to truly escape the hustle and bustle, book a weekend at the Chaminade Resort and Spa, just a short drive from the boardwalk and other local hot spots, but seemingly miles away. This family-friendly resort has it all: two kid-approved pools with cabanas available for rent, an on-site restaurant, and a spa to rejuvenate the body and mind.

Craft Coffee

Start the day with a downtown coffee crawl to taste the roasts that fuel the local scene. For something iced and creamy, grab the Missile at Verve, where floor-to-ceiling windows and mosaic tile create a gallery-like ambiance. Nearby, lush plants spill from every corner at 11th Hour Coffee inside the Santa Cruz Art Center. Tuck into a wooden booth and linger over a lavender-tinged Honey Bee Latte. Founded by national barista championship finalists, Cat & Cloud takes coffee seriously, but keeps its colorful cat-themed murals and merch whimsical.