18. Before becoming gentrified, the Mission District was a hub of Latino culture—a fact still visible in its fantastic murals, some dating to the early 1970s. On weekends, Precita Eyes Mural Arts leads public tours through otherwise forgotten alleys past hundreds of bold tableaux. Splashed across garage doors and wooden fences, the works depict dramatic scenes from the Nicaraguan revolution, visions of war and peace in El Salvador, and more. Between Balmy and Clarion Alleys, the area is an ad hoc Guggenheim.
19. Given all the sights in the city, one can forget the bay itself. A stroll on the waterfront, from the Ferry Building to Fisherman's Wharf, delivers views of both bridges, Oakland, Sausalito, and all manner of obscenely fit joggers. A ferry ride puts you even closer to the life aquatic. Buy a wildly overpriced drink, sit in the sun, and congratulate yourself for having made Alcatraz reservations months earlier—the tour is as excellent as it is popular.
20. Once a neighborhood you just drove through, Hayes Valley is now a destination in its own right. Its chic, arty boutiques include MMclay, which sells ceramics out of a vintage Airstream, and Doob, which makes lifelike models of people and pets from 360-degree photos.